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Frozen Pipes: An Emergency Guide (and How to Prevent Them Next Time)
Winter cold snaps can turn a quiet morning into a plumbing emergency. This guide shows you exactly what to do if your pipes freeze, how to thaw them safely, and the best long-term fixes so it doesn’t happen again.
First signs your pipes are frozen
Little or no water flow at a faucet (often on an exterior wall or in the morning after a cold night).
Frost or condensation on exposed pipe sections.
Strange smells from drains (ice blocking a vent line).
Bulging pipe or damp drywall—warning signs of an impending burst.
Act fast: pipes usually fail during thawing when pressure spikes behind the ice.
Immediate actions (10-minute plan)
Open the affected faucet (both hot and cold). A small trickle relieves pressure and helps thawing.
Shut off your main water if you see leaks or suspect a burst. Know where your main valve is (and label it).
Protect nearby electrics. Move items, place towels/buckets, and switch off circuits if water is near outlets.
Warm the area:
Use a space heater in the room (supervised, away from combustibles).
Open vanity/cabinet doors to let warm air reach pipes.
Aim a hair dryer on low at the frozen section, moving constantly.
Call a pro if: you can’t locate the frozen section, you see bulging/damage, or the line stays frozen after 30–45 minutes of safe warming.
Never use an open flame, propane torch, or heat gun—these start fires and damage pipes and fittings.
How to safely thaw different pipe types
Copper / PEX (common indoors)
Gentle, even heat works best. Warm the surrounding space first, then the pipe.
On copper, warm the faucet end first and move toward the ice—this allows melting water to escape.
PVC / CPVC (drains or some supplies)
Use only ambient warmth (space heater/room heat). Direct hot air can warp plastic. If in doubt, call a pro.
Hidden pipes (in walls/floors)
Increase room temperature, run safe space heat, and thaw from accessible sections. If you hear dripping in walls, shut off water and call a plumber to minimize damage.
What to do if a pipe bursts
Shut off main water immediately.
Open lowest faucet (e.g., basement laundry tub) to drain the system.
Document damage (photos/video) for insurance.
Mop up and dry: towels, wet/dry vac, dehumidifier to reduce mold risk.
Call a licensed plumber to replace damaged sections and inspect for additional weak points.
Ask about a backwater valve check if the burst flooded drains—debris can jam it.
Why pipes freeze (and where)
Unheated spaces: crawlspaces, garages, cold basements.
Exterior walls: shallow insulation or air leaks around hose bibs and sill plates.
Wind exposure: cold air infiltration can chill a short run of pipe to freezing temps even if the house is warm.
Long vacant periods: thermostats turned down, no water movement.
Prevention that actually works
1) Air-seal + insulate
Seal drafts around pipe penetrations with foam/caulk.
Add foam pipe sleeves (higher R-value for longer runs).
For hose bibs, install frost-free sillcocks and exterior foam covers.
2) Heat cable in risk zones
Self-regulating heat tape/cable on vulnerable lines keeps temps above freezing.
Add a thermostat/timer and follow manufacturer spacing and wrap rules.
3) Reroute or box-in pipes
Move pipes off exterior walls or into conditioned space when renovating.
Build an insulated chase for lines in crawlspaces and add a small supply vent.
4) Pressure & expansion protection
Verify house pressure is reasonable (a plumber can test and set a pressure-reducing valve).
Ensure a thermal expansion tank is installed on closed systems to minimize stress on lines and fixtures.
5) Smart monitoring
Leak sensors under sinks, near water heaters, and by vulnerable runs.
Whole-home shutoff valves can auto-close when sensors detect water.
Winterizing for travel or cottages
Keep heat on (do not drop too low).
Drip the farthest faucet during extreme cold (small stream keeps water moving).
Shut off & drain: for seasonal properties, fully winterize—blow out lines, drain the heater, and add RV antifreeze to traps (not to potable lines).
Label the main shutoff and leave instructions for caretakers or neighbors.
FAQs
Do I really need to drip faucets?
In extreme cold, a steady trickle at the farthest fixture can prevent freezing by relieving pressure and maintaining flow. Target lines in exterior walls first.
How long does thawing take?
Small sections can thaw in 30–60 minutes with gentle heat. Hidden or long runs may require professional equipment (pipe thawers, thermal imaging) and take longer.
Will my insurance cover burst pipes?
Many policies cover sudden and accidental water damage but expect you to maintain reasonable heat and take prompt action. Document everything and call your insurer quickly.
Space heater or hair dryer—which is better?
Warm the room first (space heater, safely supervised), then apply low, moving air with a hair dryer to the pipe. Avoid concentrated high heat.
Quick checklist (print & stick near your main shutoff)
Know main water shutoff location
Label vulnerable lines (exterior walls, crawlspace)
Keep a space heater, towels, and buckets handy
Install foam sleeves + heat cable where needed
Add leak sensors under sinks & by water heater
For trips: set heat, open vanity doors, drip farthest tap
Need help fast?
If a line won’t thaw, you see bulging pipe, or water’s already leaking, shut off the main and call a licensed plumber immediately. We can thaw lines safely, repair damaged sections, and help winterize so you don’t face the same problem next storm.